Congrats! I just heard your interview with Fiona Stalker on BBC Scot and loved it. You're funny and realistic about the triumphs and struggles of surfing. I look forward to picking up a copy of the book. Aloha from Maui!
Nice book, well written....but, you still have a lot to learn. PJ doesn't lie, and longboarders are just as valid in the water as shortboarders. I'm 52 and have been surfing since i was 15, short and long, in Britain and all over the world. Like i said, nice book but you let yourself down in parts of it.
A few years ago, I spent several months living in a van, surfing my way round Britain. I started in the Hebrides and headed clockwise, ending in North Wales fourteen months later. For a map, click around here.
4 comments:
No comments? For shame! Well done and what's next? M
hi jono,
looks like you have been busy...
would love to get in touch - can't see any other way than on your blog...
CJ (Roberts)
Congrats! I just heard your interview with Fiona Stalker on BBC Scot and loved it. You're funny and realistic about the triumphs and struggles of surfing. I look forward to picking up a copy of the book. Aloha from Maui!
Nice book, well written....but, you still have a lot to learn. PJ doesn't lie, and longboarders are just as valid in the water as shortboarders. I'm 52 and have been surfing since i was 15, short and long, in Britain and all over the world. Like i said, nice book but you let yourself down in parts of it.
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